Thursday, March 5, 2015

That Sinking Feeling

Ahhh...a beautiful beach day in the middle of the week in March. Everybody must be at work and we will have the place to ourselves!? Not so fast, Perkins...we now officially have the early springbreakers, the early bike-week folks, and anybody else that could afford to escape the winter up north. In all, the beach is packed, but hardly anybody is in the water. This Wednesday was supposed be a near record temperature day, almost 90, but it wasn't really like that on the beach. There are clouds, a cool breeze and occasional fog. There are some nice looking waves, but they are not breaking right on the outside, the water is freezing and only a couple of guys are out, and not getting any good rides.
So, I'm wearing my short wetsuit, freezing in the water and sweating when I've been out of the water for any length of time. I'm getting a few waves, but more frustrated by the waves that peak up but don't break. I spend a lot of time moving around, trying to find the spot where it really is breaking when I find myself in a fogbank. I can barely see shore, and off in the distance I can see a ghostly pier and a single paddleboarder. I start doing my best to head back his way, as this is about as spooky as a scary movie. I'm apparently going against the current as this is taking quite a bit longer than I thought it would, but distance judging in the fog is not my strong point. The fog finally clears and I realize that I can see both the paddle guy and the lone surfer getting out on the beach, leaving me the only guy in the water. Now I start to wonder, is it lunchtime? Or is it munchtime? Somehow, surfing is never quite as fun when you spend most of your time looking for dorsal fins....

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