Friday, October 17, 2014

The Week of Relaxing Turned Into Something Else

It started off with a cold, and then the weather was going to be not so great, and then on top of all that, a possible hurricane. But what happened after that is the real story. Pam's home remedy of Vitamin C and Zinc got me back on my feet quicker than I could imagine and the one day of howling wind and unsurfable waves gave me the time I needed to recover. The rest of the time has been surfing more than I ever had before. I've been out on the largest waves on a paddleboard ever, and it has been consistently waves that rivaled my recent surfing adventure in Southern California. Thursday, I was out on and off until 6pm and I am still sore in places I didn't know about. Sea Lice are in the mix and now the crowd of surfers. I actually got to where I was taking it for granted that I could have any wave I wanted until yesterday afternoon, when the water became full of surfers that were hoping to get some of the hurricane swell. Today is supposed to be the big day, so I can only assume that the crowd will grow. If there is one feeling I have had on this trip, it is a growing sense of wonder. That I can do this, that we have surf like this, it all just blows me away. Pam has her umbrella on the beach and a good book and has become my cheering section. I feel like I am that soccer kid that is looking in the bleachers to see if they saw his goal...and she always says that she did!

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