Unexpectedly, I got a call from one
of my surf buddies and was invited to go with them on dawn patrol for some tropical
storm Bertha waves. The hype was that Tuesday morning was the day the wind would
swing around. It was difficult and exciting..and that was just getting there before sunup!
The waves didn't look small, but they didn't like it was going to be difficult until we
got in the mix. The water temp was perfect, like bathwater, but the sun was stuck behind some early
morning thunderheads, which gave bit of a creepy look to the morning. We headed out into
the water, doing our best not to think about sharks feeding in the early morning hours
and proceed to wind our way through the sets. I thought I had it timed just right and got
outside without anything to complain about when a cleanup wave came and carried me all
the way back to the beach. That is part of the problem with my 10' 6" Mickey Munoz board.
It paddles very fast and loves to catch waves, but a cresting wave is likely to take me
a long way back in. I finally got the nerve to take off on what looked like a closeout
and got a good ride. I was stoked because I have spent so much time on paddleboards lately,
that I was getting concerned on being able to get to my feet on a wave.
I was starting to feel more at home as the sun came up and boldly stayed a little too long in one
wave. I got munched, and then realized that I could not even reach my board and hang on to it.
I was smack right in the middle of the closeout zone and took 4 waves in a row before I could get my board
back and right then, I decided it was a good time to take some photos!
Great friends, a beautiful morning, and pix to prove it all happened...going to work after? no problema....
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