One morning last week, we were driving up the southern California coast and I felt like I hadn't seen the ocean in a bit and pulled down a side street to get a look at the conditions. It was a short drive down a little neighborhood road to a dead-end and I saw a couple of cars with surf racks there, so we parked to get a look at the break. The photo here is what we saw. What's more difficult to convey is how the people there saw it versus how we saw it. I saw these as epic waves in an unknown spot with few surfers. In front of us were a few people in their 30's and 40's, some pausing mid-jog for a look at the surfers and one 'soccer mom' sitting there with her paperwork on her lap, cellphone to her ear, talking about how she dropped three kids off for a photo session and now she has one out in the water. To our right is a gazillion dollar glass and concrete 50's mansion with a young teenager with a towel around his waist, wondering if it was worth getting wet..
I have heard jokes that you could always spot a Florida surfer in California, "because they will paddle for anything". I'm beginning to think that is not as much a joke as I thought it was....
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